hidden histories of ice cream

learn about James Hemings and Augustus Jackson

9 February 2023

Black History Month is a time when it is especially important to celebrate Black innovators, Black artists, and the foundational impacts of Black Americans on every aspect of American life. This month we are sharing about two Black ice cream innovators and creators from our ice cream and historian friends across the country.

From Ample Hills Creamery, Brookyln, NY:

"Some people erroneously credit Thomas Jefferson with popularizing ice cream in the USA, even going so far as to market things as 'Thomas Jefferson’s vanilla ice cream recipe.' Thomas Jefferson was not a chef, and he did not have a recipe for vanilla ice cream. He enslaved a Black man who did.

James Hemings’ impact on American food is still felt today. Some of the dishes that can be traced back to his legacy include mac and cheese, french fries and French-style ice cream.

Although ice cream had already been introduced to America, Jefferson is often given credit for writing down the first American vanilla ice cream recipe and popularizing the product by serving it regularly at Monticello.

While it is true that there is a vanilla ice cream recipe in Jefferson’s handwriting, any telling of this story without mention of Hemings is erasure. Hemings was the person making French-style vanilla ice cream in the kitchen at Monticello. Jefferson was his enslaver."

From Ample Hills Creamery, Brookyln, NY:

“Known as 'the Father of Ice Cream,' Augustus Jackson was an ice cream innovator and businessman who lived in Philadelphia in the 1800s. After working as a White House chef for twenty years, Jackson returned to his home in Philly and opened a catering business. He made his fortune from ice cream, developing a unique ice cream-making technique.

BLACKPAST.ORG describes his one-of-a-kind technique by pointing out that 'most early ice cream recipes used eggs, but Jackson devised an eggless recipe. He also added salt to the ice, mixing it with his new flavors and cream. The salt made his delicious flavors taste better and lowered the temperature of the ice cream allowing it to be kept colder for a longer time. This helped with packaging and shipping. Jackson’s technique is still used today.'

Ever heard of 'Philadelphia-style' ice cream? Yeah, that’s Augustus Jackson’s technique. His impact on ice cream history is undeniable! Without his ingenious contribution, ice cream could not stay cold to be shipped across city lines — let alone across the country. It would be a melty mess.”

From Ryan Rucker of Be Ice Cream or Be Nothing:

“The next time you’re enjoying a scoop of ice cream, specifically eggless-style ice cream with a pinch of salt, know that you are participating in Black history!”

From all of us at molly moon's homemade ice cream:

Augustus Jackson’s recipe and technique is the foundation of the delicious ice cream we make. We churn and scoop in deep and humble gratitude to Hemings, Jackson, and the thousands of Black culinary geniuses who have created and shaped American cuisine and delicious food everywhere. Learn about and celebrate Black History this month and every month!

Sources

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